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Kumbhalgarh is eighty-four kilometres from Udaipur and the wall runs for thirty-six kilometres and it is the second-longest wall in the world, which is the sort of fact that gets repeated at every fort in Rajasthan about some wall or other, and I have stopped checking.
The drive takes two hours if you leave at six and four hours if you leave at nine, because the road is one lane in places and the trucks do not move over.
We left at six. I had booked a Udaipur Call Girl contact for the day, which is a different purchase from an evening and should be priced differently, and was, which is not always the case.
It also should be discussed properly beforehand, because eight hours is not two hours four times. Breakfast is a thing that has to be decided. Where you stop is a thing that has to be decided. Whether the person is coming back in the same car or finding their own way is a thing that has to be decided, and if it is not decided at the start it will be decided at nine at night on a road with no lights on it.
Here is what a day booking actually involves, for anybody who has wondered. Eight hours in a car with somebody you have met once. Two meals. A fort. A great deal of dust. And, if it goes well, four or five conversations that you would not otherwise have had, one of which will stay with you Udaipur Call Girls.
The one that stayed with me was about her father, who had worked at the fort as a guide for nineteen years and had a route that he walked every day and could do in his sleep, and who had died in 2020, and whose route nobody had taken over.
She walked it that day. She knew it. She had done it with him as a child.
We went up the wrong way, or rather the long way, past the temple and the stepwell and up the western stair, and she pointed at things and said "he used to stop here" three times, and the third time she stopped talking for a while, and I did what you are supposed to do in that situation, which is nothing at all.
The wall at the top is wide enough to drive a car along, which is a fact everybody repeats and which is true. We walked a kilometre of it. There were two other people on it, both French, both filming.
Now the boring mechanics of a day booking, and then we can go.
Negotiate the day, not the hour. Get the fuel and the driver question settled before you leave, because a day booking that includes a car is a different price from one that does not, and the difference is not small. Confirm the return time. Confirm what happens if you are late, because you will be late.
And pay at the end of the day, in cash, at the door, which in this case is a car park.
I paid at the car park. She counted it once, folded it, and put it in a pocket that was not a handbag, which I noticed and did not comment on. We said goodbye the way people say goodbye after eight hours, briefly and without ceremony, which is the most honest form of goodbye there is.
I drove back alone and the road was empty and the light was going and I thought about her father's route, which nobody has taken over, and which is now known to exactly two people, one of whom is me, and I am not going to walk it again.
Two practical things about Kumbhalgarh that no listing will tell you, and then I will stop, because the fort deserves better than a paragraph about footwear.
The first is that the last kilometre up to the fort is steep and there is nowhere to sit, and if you are with somebody who is wearing the wrong shoes you will find out at that kilometre and not before. Ask about shoes. It is a strange question and it is not a rude one.
The second is that the fort closes at five and the descent takes forty minutes in the dark if you leave it late, and the guards will start walking behind you at about four-thirty in a way that is meant kindly and does not feel kindly.
We left at four-fifteen. She was wearing the wrong shoes. We made it in twenty-eight minutes.
That is what fourteen of these posts are actually about, if you strip out the advice. Somebody tells you something that is not for sale.
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